It´s not easy carrying a full rucksack in full sun on an unseasonably warm day, while entertaining a visit from Auntie Flo, especially after a long, stuffy, crowded subte ride (DC Metro at rush hour in July is like an empty air-conditioned room compared to that), for what feels like forever until you reach the Buquebus headquarters, but I managed to stay standing somehow, despite the nausea I was feeling not only from Auntie Flow and the sun but also from the dulce de leche Oreos I´d enjoyed in excess (I know, I know, far be it from me to buy Oreos of all things when I´m outside the US, but come on, dulce de leche is authentically South American). Buquebus is the name of a travel company in South America, and it´s where we were going to buy tickets for a roundtrip ferry to Colonia in Uruguay. I´ve committed a whole plethora of stupid mistakes, including:
a. not making more than one photocopy of my passport. I took one with me when I came here and UB asked for it. That left me with none. Had I made two, I could have had my passport number and bought my tickets there, and for the better price, but more on the ripoff later.
b. not realizing I´d best have my passport or at least the number, with me when I went, preferring instead to take for granted Profesora Julia´s word that we probably wouldn´t need passports.
The idiots, like me, were advised to buy tickets online. I did that, but first I had to go home to get my passport. I retraced my steps, managing not to faint, got home, retrieved my passport, and headed out to the nearest internet cafe. Were my brain not so fried, I might have caught the tab labeled ¨promociones¨ which would have saved 45 pesos for a roundtrip journey. I ordered an ida y vuelta, i.e., roundtrip, for Buenos Aires to Colonia and back, just taking for granted that roundtrips are cheaper than two oneways. Well, this is true for travelocity and expedia, but not here. And it´s times like this that I miss the industrialized world (America, fuck yeah!) It cost me 250 instead of 205.
What would Mom and Dad say when they found out I spent 15 USD that I didn´t have to?!
I´m just grateful it was only 45 pesos/15 bucks in Buenos Aires rather than my passport and wallet and purse and cell phone in Prague the day I was to return home, or an entire suitcase in London Heathrow airport thanks to Gulf airlines (mierda, I think I just jinxed my suitcase). Well I injected some power into the sluggish Argentine economy. I´m a hero. I´ll tell myself that.
I´m cautiously optimistic about our trip to Calle Florida, and if all goes well, I´ll buy a nice swishy red dress.
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
Sunday, July 13, 2008
Palermo
When I get back home, I´m making a beeline for our iSqueeze (a foot massaging machine, gift for Mom one Christmas). On Saturday morning, we met at UB, and the plan was to go to Palermo Forest for a picnic. We walked and walked through the city until we reached a bakery, where we´d order our food to eat there. Then we walked and walked until we hit a wine shop. I hoped against hope that would be the place we order our beverages. Of course we had only actually stopped there because it was on a big intersection. On we marched when the pedestrians got the OK signal, until we hit a park. We kept walking for another mile where we hit the real park in Palermo Forest. Then we walked a quarter mile to street vendors selling water and soda bottles, which we bought, and then we walked another half mile to sit down to eat. I gave the last portion of my sandwich to the ducks. I had meant to give it to the ducks, anyway, but it´s the pigeons who went for it.
In the center of the lake is a little island full of roses, but there´s no way to get access to it, and that pissed me off. At least I was calmed down by the greenery and ducks and dogs, to which we had ready access. Actually the place was very pretty and soothing. There are plenty of pictures waiting.
The journey back was as long and arduous as the journey there, and I kept alternating between feeling hot and cold. I´m not complaining though, it was good exercise. We took the subte to Catedral, where we walked along the Calle Florida, a very posh area, and there was this Native American show going on, and the music put me in something of a trance, and I tried to videotape their performance, but I don´t think I did too well. Shame I didn´t get any sound.
We then watched this documentary, and try as I might to find something about it on wikipedia, I´m finding nothing. Hmph.
Brenda and I had dinner with Profesora Julia. We passed over the steakhouse with the cow´s head on the door, because you should avoid places like those when you´re in Buenos Aires. We had Italian instead at a place that took Visa, and it was nice getting to know the professor.
We took the subte back home. I´ve already criticized the thing, but I have more to add. Aside from not being user-friendly, the subte closes at 23:00 and it´s crawling with peddlers and mendicants. I´d cling to my possessions when they came my way. Now this is hardly unique to Argentina. Believe me, there are some crappy undergrounds in other parts of the USA too (cough, NYC, cough). But this isn´t so much a complaint as it is a reminder of what makes the DC Metro so great. Beggars and people selling things wouldn´t dare step on board the DC Metro, and the thing´s squeaky clean, and that´s why I´ll wholeheartedly support any measure designed to expand, renovate, maintain and/or improve the DC Metro. So my next glass of Argentine wine will be in honor of WMATA. Here´s to you. *clink*
In the center of the lake is a little island full of roses, but there´s no way to get access to it, and that pissed me off. At least I was calmed down by the greenery and ducks and dogs, to which we had ready access. Actually the place was very pretty and soothing. There are plenty of pictures waiting.
The journey back was as long and arduous as the journey there, and I kept alternating between feeling hot and cold. I´m not complaining though, it was good exercise. We took the subte to Catedral, where we walked along the Calle Florida, a very posh area, and there was this Native American show going on, and the music put me in something of a trance, and I tried to videotape their performance, but I don´t think I did too well. Shame I didn´t get any sound.
We then watched this documentary, and try as I might to find something about it on wikipedia, I´m finding nothing. Hmph.
Brenda and I had dinner with Profesora Julia. We passed over the steakhouse with the cow´s head on the door, because you should avoid places like those when you´re in Buenos Aires. We had Italian instead at a place that took Visa, and it was nice getting to know the professor.
We took the subte back home. I´ve already criticized the thing, but I have more to add. Aside from not being user-friendly, the subte closes at 23:00 and it´s crawling with peddlers and mendicants. I´d cling to my possessions when they came my way. Now this is hardly unique to Argentina. Believe me, there are some crappy undergrounds in other parts of the USA too (cough, NYC, cough). But this isn´t so much a complaint as it is a reminder of what makes the DC Metro so great. Beggars and people selling things wouldn´t dare step on board the DC Metro, and the thing´s squeaky clean, and that´s why I´ll wholeheartedly support any measure designed to expand, renovate, maintain and/or improve the DC Metro. So my next glass of Argentine wine will be in honor of WMATA. Here´s to you. *clink*
sweating, dancing, accents
We went dancing Thursday night with Alejandro, and it was much better than last week, because the beginner Cuban salsa lessons actually got through to me. The instructor made rounds amongst everyone, which definitely helped. And I think I know why everyone wore gloves to balls back in the day; the beginner dancers were sweating to a man, and it was warm in there... I liked that the place was right near my homestay.
A thing I´ve noticed is that Americans are accused of butchering other languages, and that´s a legitimate criticism, especially true with French. And I don´t claim to sound like a native Frenchwoman, hardly. But I can say with 100% confidence that at least I don´t cling to my American English phonetic inventory with the sort of jingoistic pride I´ve seen amongst other people, and that´s why I found it insulting that when I spoke in French to a bartender in Montreal he responded to me in English. And American professors who study French, like really study French, to become professors of French, well they try to sound French. But Argentines - even linguistics professors - keep their native accents with pride.
A thing I´ve noticed is that Americans are accused of butchering other languages, and that´s a legitimate criticism, especially true with French. And I don´t claim to sound like a native Frenchwoman, hardly. But I can say with 100% confidence that at least I don´t cling to my American English phonetic inventory with the sort of jingoistic pride I´ve seen amongst other people, and that´s why I found it insulting that when I spoke in French to a bartender in Montreal he responded to me in English. And American professors who study French, like really study French, to become professors of French, well they try to sound French. But Argentines - even linguistics professors - keep their native accents with pride.
Friday, July 11, 2008
on UB
I lied about there being nothing special about Independence Day. There was an artisan´s fair going on, and I bought a non-touristy mate cup with bombilla, entirely handmade.
My Spanish class here is as fun as my French classes at UVA. Four hours a day, five days a week. I mean, I did that once, January 2006. Four hours a day for ten days. Then I´ve had my three-hour weekly seminars during my time at UVA. But I still maintain this tops them all. At least this gives me practice for grad school.
My Spanish class here is as fun as my French classes at UVA. Four hours a day, five days a week. I mean, I did that once, January 2006. Four hours a day for ten days. Then I´ve had my three-hour weekly seminars during my time at UVA. But I still maintain this tops them all. At least this gives me practice for grad school.
Argetina´s Independence Day
I woke up on July 9th feeling congested, and didn´t feel like going out to enjoy the nice sunshine, instead staying in and watching Mulan in Spanish (one more Disney film down), but Julieta convinced me to get out, but not before admonishing me to wear my jacket. So I heeded her advice and walked around, looking for any display of patriotism. I saw a few Argentine flags displayed, but not much else. I also bought 100 grams of cinnamon flavored cookies for 2.80. That´s less than a dollar, folks.
I met Brenda in a cafe where we split some Argentine red wine for a total of 18 pesos (9 from each of us) and it was good wine too. Can we get that kind of deal in the States? Well, I can pay a dollar to taste all five of the wines from the Loudoun County vineyard of the week in the Reston Town Center farmer´s market every Thursday. It came with complimentary seltzer, and I ordered herbal tea, which came with complimentary alfajorcitos, and a croissant, and hence we didn´t go crazy with the wine.
The cafes here are fantastic - they´re kind of like Panera, except they serve alcohol, and you´re served, you don´t order up front, and a 10% tip is positively saintly. And they´re not chains. So you could have an afternoon coffee there, or dinner, or after-dinner drinks, they´re just that versatile.
I came home and saw a bit of a Simpsons episode in Spanish, and realized The Simpsons don´t lend themselves to dubbing. Why not subtitle them?
So that was my Independence Day.
I also watched an episode of The Simpsons dubbed in Spanish
I met Brenda in a cafe where we split some Argentine red wine for a total of 18 pesos (9 from each of us) and it was good wine too. Can we get that kind of deal in the States? Well, I can pay a dollar to taste all five of the wines from the Loudoun County vineyard of the week in the Reston Town Center farmer´s market every Thursday. It came with complimentary seltzer, and I ordered herbal tea, which came with complimentary alfajorcitos, and a croissant, and hence we didn´t go crazy with the wine.
The cafes here are fantastic - they´re kind of like Panera, except they serve alcohol, and you´re served, you don´t order up front, and a 10% tip is positively saintly. And they´re not chains. So you could have an afternoon coffee there, or dinner, or after-dinner drinks, they´re just that versatile.
I came home and saw a bit of a Simpsons episode in Spanish, and realized The Simpsons don´t lend themselves to dubbing. Why not subtitle them?
So that was my Independence Day.
I also watched an episode of The Simpsons dubbed in Spanish
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Monday, continued
I went to buy two envelopes for two postcards I wanted to send. I went to the correo (post office) I always go to for its internet (Sunday offers a discount). I asked if they had envelopes for my postcards and the guy told me they don´t, but to try the bookstore just a block down. I went to that place and asked if they had envelopes for my postcards. They said they don´t, but to try the bookstore just a block down. This happened two more times before I finally bought two envelopes for 60 centavos (about 25 cents).
After that goose chase was resolved, I went back to my correo to send them, and the guy said to me in English, ¨OK!¨ I´m famous, I think.
I debated getting cocoa and a snack, and finally decided to go for it at the Cafe Bouquet. I asked for the palmier and pronounced it French so the guy working there thought I was Canadian, and asked for his English speaking coworker. I got complimentary alfajorcitos and a good jug of sparkling water along with my palmier and hot cocoa, and then talked with the English speaker, and it turns out he had spent some time in the US, by GMU, and I told him all about Reston. Yay making more friends.
Today I went back there for lunch with two boys in our group.
Tomorrow is Argentina´s Independence Day. Also, the sun´s out today.
After that goose chase was resolved, I went back to my correo to send them, and the guy said to me in English, ¨OK!¨ I´m famous, I think.
I debated getting cocoa and a snack, and finally decided to go for it at the Cafe Bouquet. I asked for the palmier and pronounced it French so the guy working there thought I was Canadian, and asked for his English speaking coworker. I got complimentary alfajorcitos and a good jug of sparkling water along with my palmier and hot cocoa, and then talked with the English speaker, and it turns out he had spent some time in the US, by GMU, and I told him all about Reston. Yay making more friends.
Today I went back there for lunch with two boys in our group.
Tomorrow is Argentina´s Independence Day. Also, the sun´s out today.
Monday, July 7, 2008
first day of class
I had a poached egg along with my toast for breakfast today, which I greatly appreciated. My parents haven´t a clue how to make poached eggs, and I can´t make them either, so they´re a rare treat for me. Then I headed on to my first day of class, which was fine, until 2 p.m. when we had to listen to a lecture. And it was mildly interesting at first, but the professor was just lecturing, and the things was for two hours, and I felt a bit narcoleptic, and you can see where my pen just veered off. That would be where my eyes glazed over and I hallucinated.
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